INDUSTRY:
BIODESIGN & FASHION
LOCATION:
NEW YORK
YEAR:
2025
EXPERIENCE:
STRATEGY, BRANDING, RESEARCH
GYLD
about.
GYLD is a creative agency exploring how biomaterials can become culturally relevant through immersive public experiences. Positioned at the intersection of biodesign, storytelling, and spatial strategy, GYLD develops activations that make experimental materials desirable and accessible. With a current focus on the fashion industry, the agency collaborates with material innovators and future-facing brands to shift perception, promote regenerative practices, and build a design-forward movement around sustainable material futures.
challenge.
The fashion industry continues to rely on extractive systems, despite the rise of sustainable biomaterial innovations. These materials often remain stuck in labs - lacking visibility, cultural relevance, and pathways to adoption. There’s a growing disconnect between innovation and industry uptake. How might we bridge this gap so that biomaterials become not only viable solutions but also culturally embraced within fashion?
phases.
GYLD emerged in the final phase of a three-part journey. The project began with hands-on experimentation with biobased materials, followed by testing the impact of public-facing interventions like popups. In its third phase, GYLD was created to synthesize these learnings, transforming the research into a creative agency model aimed at accelerating material adoption through design, strategy, and cultural storytelling.
material research.
We explored biomaterial innovation by attempting to develop materials ourselves. Using Material Driven Design (MDD) methodology as part of our dual track approach, combining theoretical research with hands-on experimentation, we focused on two key materials: Natural Latex and Bacterial Cellulose. This process helped us understand the challenges and creative potential behind bio-based material development. Process for our Natural Latex experiment can be seen next to the SCOBY collage below.
Repeated SCOBY experiments often failed to produce viable results, revealing the instability and scalability challenges of living materials. These setbacks underscored the limitations of biomaterial innovation and the urgent need to spotlight these materials to attract the investment and attention they require.
Along with Hands-on experimentation, we conducted 10 in-depth qualitative interviews with biomaterial innovators, fashion professionals, academic experts, and target consumers to understand key challenges in the biodesign space. Insights revealed barriers in scaling production, siloed research and funding limitations, especially for smaller studios. A lack of consumer trust and unclear value propositions also emerged, showing the need for better storytelling and cross sector collaboration to drive the adoption and acceptance of biobased materials in the fashion industry.
market research.
The first concept, Living Futures, began as an immersive exhibition exploring fashion’s relationship with nature through regenerative materials and storytelling. To validate its potential, we conducted in-depth market research and competitor analysis by studying similar exhibitions, audience engagement strategies, and pricing models. This helped us assess cultural relevance, understand the exhibition landscape, and define a clear value proposition for positioning this idea within the broader sustainable fashion space.
concept testing.
A qualitative concept testing study was conducted through 20–30 minute structured interviews with stakeholders including biomaterial designers, fashion journalists, and investors. Using thematic analysis, responses were synthesized to identify recurring insights and success factors. With 12 interviews completed and outreach to 20+ participants, the process aimed to holistically evaluate the exhibition concept, refine its direction, and guide future prototyping through diverse perspectives and system-wide feedback.
business prototyping.
To test the creative agency MVP, a multi-channel strategy combined branding experiments, expert feedback, and public engagement. Brand appeal was gauged through posters, a dedicated photoshoot, and website tracking. Strategic viability was validated through 5 expert interviews, 15 feedback sessions, and visits to RISD’s Nature Lab and Brown University. The concept was also presented at a national circularity conference in Washington, D.C., enabling real-time critique and industry-aligned validation.
mock-up activation.
GYLD’s first public activation was a pop-up immersive store concept in SoHo, built around SCOBY-based materials developed during early experimentation. Designed in-house, Emma led branding while Nij contributed spatial design. Feedback from initial tests informed updates to the 3D model. The final activation featured custom GYLD bottles, a VR walkthrough, live demos, and a curated display of biomaterials, showcased in an exhibition-style format to simulate real-world engagement.
testimonial.
This is really important what you’re doing...fast fashion really needs it right now…also really challenging though, to bring change in any system.
Mark Tracy
Sustainable Finance, Brown University
